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Today’s Nibbles celebrates “The Untouchables,” the longest-served Boulder restaurant dishes. Readers and chefs talk about beloved dishes like the kale and apple salad at Oak at Fourteenth, Efrain’s green chile and Basta’s roasted half chicken.
Plus: A panel reveals how Boulder became a natural foods epicenter; a new North Boulder neighborhood bar and grill opens; and “Badass Women Chefs” in Boulder.
Send your Untouchables, comments, wild blueberry pie tips and information about Boulder County restaurants and food events to nibbles@boulderreportinglab.org.
— John Lehndorff
My prime directive as a food writer is to boldly taste new things at freshly opened Boulder restaurants. There have been hundreds of eateries over the years. Some of these dishes were unforgettable, others not so much, but my palate remains curious.
However, when I’m off the clock, I’m just another schmuck looking for lunch. I’m not taking notes or shooting food photos. I ignore the menu and order the same thing every single time at certain places. My mouth looks forward to enjoying them again. If they disappeared or the bistro closed, I would feel the loss.
I always order the Southern Breakfast at Dot’s Diner (1975), eggs over easy with smoked ham, grits, sausage gravy and a warm biscuit with raspberry jam and butter.
When I eat at Mustard’s Last Stand (1978), I have to get the Chicago-style Vienna Beef hot dog with mustard, relish, onions, tomato, pickle, sport peppers and celery salt. Plus: real, freshly cut fries.
Our taste as a dining public is fickle, but when we fall in love with an appetizer, salad or entrée, we expect it to be on the menu when we visit. Forever.
Asked to nominate dishes for “The Untouchables,” Nibbles readers responded with a hall of fame lineup of cherished flavors and expressions of devotion. These familiar dishes are essentially Boulder’s best — its bestsellers, if you take the long view.
Chefs I contacted expressed their appreciation for fans’ devotion and admitted that replacing these icons with something new and trendy would unleash the wrath of the regulars.
The dishes noted form a Boulder taste timeline. Consider that some of these restaurants have served the same menu item almost every day for up to half a century. They are our hometown culinary survivors.
Note: The date in parentheses after a restaurant name indicates when it opened and approximately when it started serving the dish.
Kale salad, spaghetti and lots of falafel
The menu fixture readers mentioned most is the kale and apple salad at Oak at Fourteenth (2010). Nibbles reader Nicole Heathwood wrote: “It would be tragic if they ever got rid of it!”
Many readers commented that the spaghetti with marinara, lasagna and numerous other dishes have been served since the Kennedy administration at various locations since The Gondolier Italian Eatery (1960) opened.
Greg Schlender echoes the feelings of several commenters who look forward to eating at Falafel King (1978). “For 40 years, I have ordered the 4×6: four salads and six falafel balls covered in onions, feta and hot sauce, with fresh pita and tzatziki sauce. I would revolt if they ever deleted it from the menu,” he says.
You don’t keep something on a menu for decades simply for nostalgia. It stays because it still sells well, according to Ginger Pig (2015) owner Natasha Hess.
“We have served karaage chicken and our house-made Sichuan oil since we started as a food truck in Boulder 10 years ago. It’s on the menu at our places in Boulder and Denver.”
Chef Dakota Soifer is surprised that crispy cauliflower with saffron yogurt is still on his Café Aion (2010) menu, but it’s not alone. “People love it. Our paella, the chile chocolate torte and sangria have also been on the menu for over 15 years,” he says.
Burgers and prime rib traditions, and bacon jam
There has been a burger available at 1047 Pearl Street since Tom’s Tavern opened there in 1959. The lunch menu at Salt (2009) has always included a tribute: The Tom’s Tavern Burger. “Of course, we have elevated it with grass-fed Colorado beef, Cheddar and a beautiful organic brioche bun,” according to Chef Paolo Neville.
When Marcy Miller opened the Organic Sandwich Company (2015), she featured a fun sandwich on a pretzel bun that includes tomato, romaine and avocado aioli. “I’m pretty sure our customers would revolt if we ever removed our Turkey & Bacon Jam sandwich,” she says.
Anthony Chavez and several other readers nominated the prime rib dinner at the Boulder Cork (1969). “I took my first Boulder High School date there before a dance back in 1975. The years have passed, but the prime rib is still a favorite,” he writes.
“Mud pie, prime rib, teriyaki sirloin and the artichoke appetizer have been on the menu since day one,” according to Jim Smailer, the Boulder Cork’s longtime chef, now semi-retired.
Some Untouchables are multigenerational
The popular John’s Gnocchi Verde with spinach Reggiano cream and lemon zest on River and Woods’ (2016) menu honors the eatery that preceded it, John’s Restaurant (1975). “The other thing on the menu since the beginning is our homemade s’mores roasted at the table. People are obsessed with them,” says chef/owner Daniel Asher.
One reader noted that Efrain’s Mexican Restaurant (1991) keeps a longstanding family tradition alive. “I have been eating the Number 3 Relleno Dinner for more than 50 years,” wrote one diner. The recipes served at Efrain’s, including the green chile, were passed down through the family from one of Boulder’s first Mexican eateries, Senor Miguel (1969).
The email blizzard and 100-plus responses to a social media post indicate we struck a chord with Nibbles readers. Many also mourn deeply missed dishes served at long-closed Boulder eateries, from the scrambled tofu at the Harvest Restaurant to Juanita’s Chicken Chipotle.
More reader-nominated menu Untouchables
Smoked stuffed trout, Gold Hill Inn (1962)
Beef Wellington, Greenbriar Inn (1967)
#5: Two eggs with hash browns and toast, Village Coffee Shop (1971)
Steak tartare, Flagstaff House (1971)
Eggs New Orleans with biscuits and jam, Lucille’s Creole Cafe (1980)
Manicotti, Pasta Jay’s (1988)
PEI mussels, Carelli’s of Boulder (1991)
Dungeness crab with garlic sauce, Chez Thuy (1993)
Gumbo, Jax Fish House (1994)
Simple salad with fried capers, Brasserie Ten Ten (2003)
Buffalo fried cauliflower tacos with vegan blue cheese, celery and carrot, Leaf Vegetarian Restaurant (2006)
Roasted half chicken, Basta (2010)
How Boulder became America’s crunchy granola natural epicenter
Around the United States and the globe, Boulder is not famous for the Flatirons or Coach Prime. To millions, Boulder is the place where all their natural food favorites are made. “Boulder” is the address on the side of every package of herbal tea and nut butter.
Why did this small Colorado city become the epicenter of natural foods innovation?
We hope to answer that question at the Tales of Tofu Town event March 30 at the Museum of Boulder. I’ll head a panel featuring natural foods pioneers Sheldon Romer of Rudi’s Organic Bakery and Mark Retzloff, co-founder of Alfalfa’s Markets and Aurora Organic Dairy. Joining them is Steve Hoffman, founder of Compass Natural and former editorial director of Natural Foods Merchandiser magazine. Tickets here.
Opening
The Lowdown is open at 2731 Iris Avenue, former site of Murphy’s and The Local. According to a social media post, the neighborhood bar and grill is named after Boz Scaggs’ silky 1976 dance hit: “Lowdown.”
Female culinary stars rule CineChef
The Boulder International Film Festival kicks off April 9 with CineCHEF featuring “Badass Women Chefs,” including Lauren Leitner (Greenbriar Inn), Ariana Rios (Limelight Boulder), Rainbow Shultz (Jamestown Mercantile Cafe), Alexandra Stuessi (Pizza Alberico) and Patty Wilson (St Julien Hotel & Spa). Get tickets.
Find a local CSA at Lafayette fair
Slow Food Boulder County and the Lafayette Farmers Market host the final CSA Fair of the year 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. March 29 inside the cafeteria at Lafayette’s Pioneer Elementary School. East County farms will be on hand offering different-sized weekly produce boxes. Details here.
(Get your upcoming food event, festival or class listed free on Boulder Reporting Lab using the self-submission form here.)
“I know and hate kale when I see it — and these days I see it everywhere: like scorched bits of burned paper atop pizzas, muffled into pesto as a dusty, bitter blanket over pasta and risotto.” — Mimi Sheraton, noted American dining critic
Want more Boulder bites?
Last call at the Dark Horse: After 51 years, a Boulder institution closes its doors
Patrons lined up one last time outside the legendary bar and grill, sharing stories of cheap beers, crab races and decades of late nights as the property prepares for redevelopment into housing. Continue reading…
New Boulder restaurant Casa Juani brings Spanish seafood and tapas from Frasca alumni chefs
Frasca alumni chefs Eduardo Valle Lobo and Kelly Jeun open their first solo restaurant on Pearl Street in downtown Boulder. Continue reading…
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