After father’s death, Niwot Market co-owners continue Friday dinners and traditions at one of Boulder County’s remaining independent grocers

In a world where Albertsons and Kroger dominate the grocery scene, there’s comfort in knowing there are still family-owned and operated markets. Unlike the industry giants, these independents, sometimes offering no more than one location, provide highly personalized service and a sense of community that’s all too rare in today’s retail space. 

Case in point is the Niwot Market, a compact but welcoming spot tucked away in the leafy environs of its namesake town. Alison and Seth Steele are the sister and brother co-owners, representing their family’s third generation of grocery store operators. The family entered the grocery business when Alison and Seth’s grandfather founded Steele’s Market in Fort Collins in 1942. Their father, Bert, carried on the family tradition, growing up learning the ropes in Fort Collins before starting Niwot Market in 2002. 

Bert passed away last August but his legacy and values live in how Niwot Market distinguishes itself. While many businesspeople focus only on the bottom line, Alison explains that her father was all about “helping community and helping people; he cared more about relationships than money.” 

These principles are clear to even the most casual observer of the market, where the cashiers make a point of engaging patrons in a sincere, unscripted manner.  It’s also clear that the Steele family is familiar with most of their customers. “Seth and I, my Dad, make it a point of knowing everyone in town, knowing their names,” said Alison.  

Sociologists have identified spaces that are neither work nor home as “third places,” spots where community members can gather, share news and  enjoy one another’s company.  By this definition, the Niwot Market handily qualifies as a classic third place. The market’s deli serves an expansive breakfast menu, offering everything from basic bacon and egg breakfasts to tamales and other hearty morning meals. Customers, ranging from cyclists to long-time locals, enjoy the meals, sometimes out on the sunny patio, taking full advantage of this venue’s role as a communal space.  

You may also see families gathering for the Sunday ramen at the market’s in-house Japanese restaurant, Sachi Sushi. The Market also plays a large role in the civic life of Niwot, whether it’s participating in events that promote local businesses or hosting the town’s annual Fourth of July pancake breakfast. 

Local products take priority here, as evidenced by a produce section that rivals some farm stands. The market relies heavily on fruits and vegetables from nearby suppliers such as Kilt Farm, Ella Family Farms and Dooley Farms. From time to time, the market also hosts farm stand pop-ups; a recent one spotlighted preserves from Niwot’s Squeak and Squawk Farm. Alison noted, “These are things you can’t get from King Soopers.” 

For the uninitiated, nothing captures the quintessential Niwot Market experience like attending one of their summertime Friday night dinners. Steele explained that this tradition started in 2011, the brainchild of her father and Chef Justin Hirshfield, who handled the market’s culinary duties at the time. Referring to the substantial dining area in front of the market, Steele added, “It was also a way to use the patio.” 

In the early years, the dinners featured a menu that changed each week and typically ran from Memorial to Labor Day. “It wasn’t a buffet originally,” Steele explained, as meals were individually plated and served to diners. Parties could also show up without a reservation  shortly before start time and have a good chance of securing a table. 

More recently, it’s become clear that the labor-intensive nature of preparing a weekly dinner for 125 people in a non-restaurant setting is a daunting task. As a result, the buffet-style meal is now offered at a more sustainable monthly cadence, overseen by Chef Seth Steele. Diner demand has also outstripped supply so the market has moved to an online reservations system. Typically, the dinners sell out the same day reservations are made available. Details on scheduling and reservations are found below. 

The first dinner of the summer, which took place on June 7  and cost $30, spotlighted old favorites traditionally present on the opening menu. The main course was fried chicken, accompanied by red beans and rice, collards, corn cakes, succotash salad and watermelon and hummingbird cake for dessert. 

The fried chicken was everything you would want it to be, with a hint of peppery heat in the crisp batter and meat that was both tender and moist. The old-school favorite of no less a luminary than Louis Armstrong, red beans and rice, stayed true to its New Orleans inspiration. The beans themselves possessed the proper creamy texture and balanced seasoning, accented by hearty chunks of andouille sausage. 

Standout sides included crisp tender collards enriched by pork and top-notch corn cakes, which proved that everything can be improved by liberal additions of butter and honey. A succotash salad provided a welcome dose of fresh greens beefed up by the addition of sweet corn kernels. 

Dessert consisted of another Southern favorite, a moist hummingbird cake that wasn’t too sweet and featured smooth pineapple and banana flavors. For those who desired something simpler, chilled sweet watermelon presented an equally satisfying conclusion to the meal. 

Throughout the years, the Niwot Market Friday night dinners have provided both exceptional value and experience, augmented by a relaxing al fresco setting and live music. The latest iteration lives up to this Boulder County tradition under the third generation of Steele’s in a way that would make Bert proud.  

The remaining dinners for summer 2024 will take place on July 12, Aug. 9 and Sept. 6. Online reservation information will be available two weeks prior to each dinner at niwotmarket.com and the menu will be announced one week before the dinner. Information is also available on the market’s Instagram and Facebook accounts.