Colorado & Northwestern Railway brochure. Courtesy of the author’s collection

In the late 19th century, a steam-powered narrow-gauge railroad wound its way from Boulder into the mountains of western Boulder County. The railroad succeeded in its purpose of hauling coal and other supplies to the mining towns and returning with silver and gold ore. Meanwhile, the general public rode around town in horse-drawn vehicles. Boulder residents and others longed for a change of scenery and cooler mountain air.

In 1898, when the Colorado & Northwestern Railroad replaced the former route of the Greeley, Salt Lake & Pacific (that never saw its namesakes), promoters rebranded their company and catered to excursionists. A local resident came up with the name “Switzerland Trail,” and the railroad company added “of America.”

The Switzerland Trail of America brought tourism to western Boulder County.

Initially, the narrow-gauge line ran only from Boulder to the town of Sunset. In addition to local passengers, a little bulldog rode the trains as well. He was said to get on at one stop and get off at another. No one knew who owned him, but railroad employees called him Grover Cleveland after the then-current U.S. president.

Then, under the ownership of the Colorado & Northwestern, a whole new world opened up to thrilled sightseers. After Sunset, the trains climbed to 9,500 feet before descending slightly into the town of Ward. When the first train arrived there in 1898, local residents greeted company officials and dignitaries with explosions of dynamite. A newspaper writer reported, “Ward feels the stimulus of the greedy hunt for gold and is roused into activity by the locomotive whistle.”

Between Sunset and Ward, the trains also stopped at Mont Alto, a railroad company picnic pavilion that catered to school and church groups, as well as to anyone eager for a day in the mountains. Instead of going on to Ward, the excursionists got off at Mont Alto, stayed for most of the day, then boarded returning trains several hours later.

In front of the pavilion, a fountain flowed with water fed by gravity from a spring 3,000 feet farther uphill. Many of the sightseers hiked or played baseball and picnicked while tapping into iced kegs of beer.

Ladies in long dresses gathered wildflowers. In the fall, “autumn leaf” specials made scheduled stops in aspen groves so passengers could gather boughs with yellow and orange leaves.

Passengers wait to board a train at the Mont Alto pavilion. Courtesy of the Carnegie Library for Local History, Museum of Boulder

Late in 1904, the Colorado & Northwestern extended its southern branch from the town of Sunset to Eldora, west of Nederland. The Mont Alto pavilion, which had only been in use for four years, was dismantled, transported by train and rebuilt at Glacier Lake, east of today’s Peak to Peak Highway. There, the excursionists added rowing to their previous recreational activities.

Meanwhile, mining (and milling) along the route continued, and the railroad facilitated industry changes, as well. Except for its extensive and still-standing foundation, the Wall Street Gold Extraction Company’s mill in the town of Wall Street (two words in those days) was dismantled, loaded onto flatcars, and moved to the Livingston Mine on Sugarloaf Mountain. A newspaper reporter called the mill an “enormous monument of folly.” The company had declared bankruptcy, but its buildings and equipment got reused.

The railroad branched north and south at the town of Sunset. Courtesy of the author’s collection

Artists and photographers often portrayed the “parting of the ways” where, at Sunset, trains to Ward made a sharp turn to the north, while others wound their way south to Eldora.  

Florence Hubbard models the “Switzerland Trail” dress. Courtesy of the Carnegie Library for Local History, Museum of Boulder

Today, promotional brochures and mementos of the railroad era are sought after by collectors. All that remains of one elusive advertising item is a photo by Joseph Sturtevant of a “Switzerland Trail” dress. In addition to being a prolific photographer, Sturtevant was also an artist. It’s likely that he hand-painted the dress himself.

The dress was modeled by a young woman named Florence Hubbard. The photo is archived in Boulder’s Carnegie Library, but there is no information about where she wore it. Details about the dress and its location remain a mystery.

Map of the Switzerland Trail of America routes. Courtesy of the author’s collection

The Denver, Boulder & Western Railroad took ownership in 1909 and was the last company on the narrow-gauge line. Two years earlier, Boulder had enacted citywide prohibition. Passengers (who obviously enjoyed being outside city limits) nicknamed the line the “Drink Beer and Wine.”

In 1919, the narrow-gauge railroad was washed out by a flood. By then, the once-enthusiastic passengers had become enamored with the invention of the automobile. The railroad couldn’t compete or afford to rebuild. The route, so loved by previous Boulder residents, was abandoned.

In Boulder County, the mountain railroad era was over. Some parts of the routes — between Sunset and the Gold Hill Road and between Sunset and Glacier Lake — are still drivable by four-wheel-drive, high-clearance vehicles.

For the Switzerland Trail, however, it was the end of the line.

Silvia Pettem has spent decades researching and writing about Boulder County history. She's also the author of more than 20 books, including Separate Lives: Uncovering the Hidden Family of Victorian Professor Mary Rippon; In Search of the Blonde Tigress: The Untold Story of Eleanor Jarman; and Someone's Daughter: In Search of Justice for Jane Doe, Updated Edition. Silvia's goal for her history column is to offer readers new perspectives on Boulder and the world around them and leave them with an appreciation of the past. She welcomes reader comments and questions and can be reached at silviapettem@gmail.com.

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12 Comments

  1. Great article! I love the history of the Switzerland trail. I didn’t know the Mt Alto pavilion was moved or that there used to be a spring.

  2. I love this, and used to X-C ski the trail. I wish our forebears had had the wisdom to maintain this wonderful way of getting to the mountains from Boulder.

  3. The legacy continues – today, hundreds of Boulder-area cyclists ride the Switzerland trail each week in summer. If she were alive now, I’d picture Flo Hubbard as a gravel biking queen!

  4. In 1962, Forest Crossen published a limited-edition, 400+ page (4000 numbered copies, Pruett Press) book called “The Switzerland Trail of America,” filled with pictures and history of the railroad.

    The/A manager of the railroad was named J. T. Blair. On page 86 of the book, Crossen writes, “Editor L. C. Paddock of the Daily Camera had a warm spot in his heart for the railroad as he wrote: ‘Mont Alto—Possibly Manager Blair had an old flame named ‘Alto’ or ‘Alta’ and the name haunted him until he attached it to this delightful park set up upon the crest of the foothills.”

    At one point there were four trains per day heading up into the mountains. One picture in the book has a caption saying that the trains to Sunset didn’t turn around. They came back to Boulder in reverse (engine in back), which was considered fairly dangerous. There were derailments at times (and pictures of one of them).

    Another fun fact is that there was a plan to build a railroad up the hillside north of Boulder, then up Left Hand Canyon, and to continue it all the way across Buchanan Pass (lowest point just north of Sawtooth Mountain). Never got built though.

    Crossen’s book came with detailed maps of the railroad coming into Boulder from Boulder Canyon (back then it was Boulder Cañon). The railroad yard and depot at the eastern end was all between Walnut St and the creek. The number of tracks widened and then coalesced from 4th St. east all the way to the Depot building on 14th St. Canyon Blvd, née Water St. wasn’t there because the yard was seven railroad tracks wide.

    It’s a fun book, with tons of pictures. I presume the Carnegie Library has a copy.

    1. Yes. After the town of Sunset, where one line branches to the north and the other to the south, you can hike, bike, and drive high-clearance vehicles on much of the line. Study the maps in Crossen’s book (see Doug’s comment above), available as a reference in Boulder’s Carnegie Library. A good place to hike is where the RR crossed the road due west of Gold Hill (between the town of Gold Hill and the Peak to Peak highway. Email me (silviapettem.com) and I can provide more details.

  5. Thank you for this! As an outdoorsman and hunter, I’ve hiked on and mostly off trails throughout the public lands of Boulder county. I’ve often wondered about the history of the Switzerland Trail and other relics I’ve found strewn about the backcountry. My next visit is to the Rollins Pass area to see the ancient rock walls constructed along the divide by prehistoric hunters.

  6. A very interesting article. I live at Copper rock, the original town site. My living room was the train station for the narrow gauge railroad. I have some old black-and-white photographs of tourist on the Boardwalk waiting for the train. Circa 1910. there is a lot of history in this area, most of which I have yet to hear. I’ve been across the Switzerland many times, and you can actually make it by car if it’s not too low. Feel free to email me if you have any thing to add. Greg Sparre

    1. Thanks to all for your great comments. Greg, I know Copper Rock, as I used to live near Wallstreet. I’m sure you have Forest Crossen’s book on the Switzerland Trail. Also, Boulder’s Carnegie Library has additional photos of Copper Rock.

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